Brazil: Why visit Brazil, you say? Being such an immense country (the world’s fifth largest, actually), Brazil has so much to offer. From sensational beaches, street carnivals, world-famous architecture, tiny villages, the exotic Amazon, exciting nightlife (if that’s your thing), culture, food, delicious Caipirinhas…. Brazil seems to have it all. And it does!
Two weeks is barely enough to scratch the surface. On the other hand, two weeks provides enough time to see many of Brazil’s highlights, plus you will have a reason to come back one day! Having been twice before, I knew where I wanted to go and didn’t want to go and Rio, though wonderful, was not at the top of my list. I craved smaller cities, quieter beaches, fewer people and some off-the-beaten-path spots. And, rather than jumping from one place to another, I wanted to unpack and stay put for a couple of days at a time so I could thoroughly enjoy the vibrating atmosphere and culture that Brazil is famous for.
For our two-week itinerary in Brazil, we chose a few days in each of the following: Porto Seguro, Salvador da Bahia and Jericoacoara.
Unlike previous trips to Brazil, there was no improvising here. Planning was necessary (but daunting), especially because we would be visiting three very different areas of the country and needed transport. There are virtually no railways throughout Brazil to connect the various, far-apart regions and, since rainforests cover a good portion of the country, traveling by car or bus is super time-consuming (and very unreliable). Therefore, flying is the most effective way to visit Brazil. Luckily, flights within Brazil are affordable if purchased in advance.
You’ll likely begin your trip by flying into either Sao Paulo or Rio de Janeiro, Brazil’s busiest airports. Our flight from Chicago was long and tiring. We first had a layover in Panama (where we almost lost our luggage). Then, we flew to Sao Paulo for a very uncomfortable night in the airport BEFORE then boarding a quick flight up to Porto Seguro. Ohhh… that shower in Porto Seguro felt nice.
Porto Seguro is a historic coastal destination in South Bahia, a State of Brazil. Brimming with culture, natural beauty and open-air concerts, Porto Seguro also houses the districts of Arraial d’Ajuda, Trancoso and Caraiva. Our cute boutique hotel was near the water and a 1/2 mile hike to downtown Arraial d’Ajuda, near Porto Seguro. We had a pool, a large and healthy breakfast and a very helpful manager who saved us when our ATM cards were not working properly.
Porto Seguro is not only a place of breathtaking beauty, but also a historical center with a fascinating past. It was here that the Portuguese navigator Pedro Álvares Cabral landed in 1500 and set foot on Brazilian soil for the first time. The historic center, called Cidade Histórica, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and will take you back in time with its cobbled streets, colorful colonial houses and the impressive church of Nossa Senhora da Pena.
The historic area is atop a hill and provides sprawling ocean views. Take some time to wander through the grounds, which look more like an open-air museum. There are plenty of memorials to read and 16th-century buildings to explore, including the Discovery Landmark, a monument brought straight from Portugal within the caravels.
We hopped on a bus one day for a ride to Nativos Beach near the town of Trancoso. It was a 2-hr trip in a very bumpy van. The town was quaint and offered cold beer and plenty of souvenir stands. We walked on the beach and stopped for a few caipirinha cocktails. Refreshing and easy to make, this Brazilian cocktail contains fresh lime juice, sugar and cachaça. You can quickly drink too many and feel a bit tipsy!
Next up…. Salvador de Bahia: Many claim that Salvador steals their heart. The city is indeed rich with local traditions and history. Pastel-colored buildings border the Pelourinho, the historic center that is a UNESCO site. Here, ubiquitous music floats along the cobblestones. There are several restaurants serving incredible Bahia food and beer as well as local boutiques selling colorful textiles. Our favorite dish was the traditional Moqueca, a delicious fish stew mixed with African influences.
Our AirBnB was near the church of Nosso Senhor do Bonfim, the perfect spot to enjoy the historic center. I didn’t mention that we were in Brazil for the World Cup, which Brazil was participating in! The city was buzzing with excitement and we were able to watch several of the games “local style” (on a plastic chair with beer in hand).
Other adventures in Salvador led us to the outskirts of the city. The Elevador Lacerda is the first urban elevator in the world, connecting the lower and upper cities. It’s located in the Baía de Todos os Santos and it has a beautiful view, perfect for taking photos. This is a square that has generated controversy during its history. It used to house the old temple of the Sé Primacial of Brazil, built in 1553 and demolished in 1933 to make room for cable cars.
We were also in Salvador for the thrilling Festa de Santa Bárbara. Santa Bárbara is syncretized with Iansã, wife of Xangô and goddess of the winds, lightning and storms (the saint’s father was killed by lightning after having beheaded his daughter for becoming a Christian, so the story goes, which is the connection for the syncretization). Brian and I walked in the procession through Pelourinho to the Corpo de Bombeiros (Fire Station) in the Baixa dos Sapateiros.
Up to Jericoacoara National Park: With two cities under our belt, we flew up to the north coast on our endless quest for wild landscapes and off-the-beaten-track destinations. Once a fishing village, it became Jericoacoara National Park in 2002. “Jeri” is a bohemian and idyllic village where you could stay for weeks. The town has no roads, only sandy pathways lined with cute cafes, boutiques and pousadas. Here, giant dunes sit beside cozy lagoons and colorful kite-surfing boards dot the huge waves hitting against the untarnished shores.
Jeri is situated amongst sand dunes on Brazil’s East Coast of Céarà, just 3° south of the equator where it enjoys 320 sunny days a year, as well as warm air and water temperatures the whole year round. If you’re looking to disconnect from the world and forget about everything, Jericoacoara is the place for you. Jeri is also part of the “Route of Emotions“, a route that crosses incredible landscapes in the Northeast of Brazil.
Flights are limited to Jeri. We flew up from Salvador and had no problems with canceled flights (though it does happen often). Bear in mind that you need a 4×4 to be able to reach the village, so you need to take a 4×4 cab/transfer, or rent a 4×4 car. Jeep transfers are easy to purchase from the arrivals gate.
We stayed a few days in Jeri and a few in nearby Prea. Our first accommodation was a cute pousada with a pool and a breakfast room filled with travelers swapping tales.
Jeri is surrounded by sweet-water lagoons, a calm ocean and enormous sand dunes. It is also a place of ecological protection and a paradise for nature lovers and wind sport enthusiasts. The steady wind between July and November makes Jericoacoara one of the preferred destinations in the world for water sports such as windsurfing, kite surfing and sailing.
Each evening visitors climb the enormous dune at the ocean’s edge to watch one of the most spectacular sunsets on Brazil’s coast. After the sun sets, there are many clever locals with drink carts selling fresh caipirinhas, beer and more so visitors can simply wander the sandy paths with drink in hand.
The sights to see in Jericoacoara are a little far apart, so several companies organize full-day excursions that take you to the main points of interest. These companies offer two types of excursions. Both can be done by either 4×4, which is basically a safari truck with outside seats (you’d be sharing the tour with other people), a dune buggy (private), or a quad bike (Private). What is the difference between the tours? Jeri’s East coast tour is full of beaches, and crystal clear lagoons, whereas Jeri’s West coast tour is more rivers, mangroves and a couple of lagoons.
West Jericoacoara Tour: Mangue seco, Guriú, Tatajuba Dunes & Duna do Pôr do Sol
East Route of Jericoacoara: Pedra Furada, Árvore da PreguiÇa, Blue Lagoon, Paradise Lagoon & Barrinha
We chose to take the East Route tour and it was a lovely day out (though highly, highly touristic). Jericoacoara’s lagoons are famous for colorful hammocks that are set over the turquoise water. Note that many stops on the tour are protected and require an additional fee to cover staff costs and maintenance. Therefore you will spend about an extra R$100 per person on the tour to pay for entrance fees.
Did I like Jeri? Sure, I did. With Jeri checked off our list, we became one of the bohemian wanderers, adrenaline-addicted adventurers and end-of-the-earth seekers!
