Have two weeks to explore Greece? Lucky you! I spent two WONDERFUL, culture-soaked weeks enjoying the highlights of the islands of Crete and Naxos. Accompanied by my mom and fiance, we saw ancient treasures, roamed cobblestones soaked in age-old traditions, ate fresh Greek dishes, drank A LOT of wine, and discovered all of the undeniable joys of traveling through this paradise called Greece.
Small, family-owned tavernas in Chania
How to spend 7 days on Crete, Greece
First, the basics. Greece’s largest island, Crete, can be a bit intimidating given its size and the number of sites! Located in the southern area of the Mediterranean, Crete is bordered to the north by the Sea of Crete and to the south by the Libyan sea. The island is divided into four “regions:” Chania, Rethymno, Iraklio and Lasithi. With the well-traveled National Road crossing the island from the western Chania region to the easternmost Lasithi region, the northern coast is much more touristy that the rugged southern region. However, if you’re up for a bit more research and a good map, the southern region is worth the effort… and it’s spectacularly beautiful!
Our trip focused on both the northern and southern regions of Chania and Heraklion with a brief dip into the region of Rethymnon. We started things off in the city of Chania (yes, Chania is both the region name and the city name). Our lovely AirBnB was smack dap in the middle of Chania’s action along the Akti Miaouli. We had a balcony overlooking the sparkling blue sea, a perfect spot for drinking wine while soaking up sea views. It was also lovely to be lulled to sleep by the ocean, something that doesn’t happen very often in Chicago.
We had three days to “do” Chania and its surrounds so we started off by simply seeing the highlights of the city. There is much to see and do (and eat) in Chania! We roamed the back alleys of the Old Town and explored the romantic Venetian harbor, traipsing out to the lighthouse. Of course, we paused a few times to sample Greece’s yummy gelato, a great treat during hot afternoons! Evenings found us dining along the harbor, indulging in fresh fish and oh-my-gosh salads. The tomatoes, cucumbers and goat cheese are so deliciously fresh. Maimai and Apostolis were two of our favorite spots.
Delicious salads in Greece
The following two days found us setting out to explore the region’s more remote treasures. Elafonisi wasn’t on our itinerary this trip, though many do make the trek out to see this unique pink sand beach. Instead, we took a road trip to the south coast to the laid-back coastal village of Paleochora. Our drive took us directly through the middle of the island, past stunning ravines, wild stretches of olive groves and bucolic villages. Character-filled Paleochora offers bunches of swet boutiques and taverns that spill out onto the pavement. There are two beaches, the sandy Pahia Ammos and the pebbly Halikia. It was a lovely afternoon, spent relaxing and wandering around people-watching. On the way home, we stopped in at the celebrated Manousakis Winery for some wine tasting and appetizers. This family-owned winery boasts a tree-shaded terrace, delicious red and white wines and one very cute puppy!
Off to the Amari Valley
After three days in Chania, we headed to the Amari Valley. Known as “Lotus Land,” the Amari Valley is bordered by wild mountains and has remained largely untouched by modern development. On the way, we paused for lunch and sightseeing in the beautiful historic city of Rethymnon, the capital of the region with the same name. Rethymnon is located about 50 minutes from Chania, also on the northern coast. It’s a car-free city so we parked outside the grand walls and walked to explore the Old Town. The city is famous for its delightful Venetian Fortress, known as the Fortezza. The impressive castle faces the sea and is well worth a visit to learn about the various pirate attacks that happened there throughout the centuries.
Bidding Rethymnon farewell, we continued east to Margarites, a tiny darling pottery village that can be traced back to Minoan times. The streets are filled with lovely stores and locally owned art studios, all selling unique, colorful pottery. We bought our fair share of souvenirs before continuing through the countryside to the even smaller town of Thronos. This was a stay to remember!
In Thronos, we stayed at the family-owned Aravanes where we had a taste of world-known Cretan hospitality! The sisters who run the hotel were so lovely and welcoming. The guest rooms were cozy and outfitted with modern amenities and special touches of Cretan decor. Plus, our dinner and breakfast featured delicious and freshly cooked dishes crafted from local ingredients.
After a wonderful night in Thronos, we drove to the southern coast to stay in Matala for two nights. This superbly colorful oceanside village made its way to stardom during the 1960s when a group of anti-conformist hippies moved to the island to live in the ancient caves that stand along the Bay of Matala. Joni Mitchell, Cat Stevens and Bob Dylan once frequented these caves! Visitors can still visit the caves today, albeit they are slippery so watch your footing. After watching the boats bob in the harbor for a bit, we headed up into the caves for a self-guided tour. My mom says this is one of her favorite memories of her time in Greece!
Exploring Matala, Crete
We celebrated my birthday at a wonderful seaside fish restaurant. The following morning, we drove Brian back to the north coast to drop him off at the airport (he had to return to work) and mom and I drove on to Milatos Village, a sweet fishing village. Our lil’ bungalow was super cute and perfect for two people. We had a few nice walks along the very breezy beach and harbor and dined on fresh fish and pasta at the “pop-up” restaurants. One day of exploring took us to Elounda, hidden away on the eastern coast. I loved the authentic Greek feel of Elounda, the friendly locals and the relaxed atmosphere of the village. We wandered along the pedestrian walks and had a quick lunch at a local taverna before driving inland to Kritsa. (Note: We didn’t have time for a trip to Spinalonga, an island that is a former leper colony, but it is highly recommended. Sufferers from Crete were forcibly relocated to the island in an attempt to stop the spread of the disease. Today, visitors can take a boat trip out to the island for an informational tour.)
We enjoyed little Kritsa, clinging to the craggy foothills of the Dikti range. Kritsá is famous for its picture-postcard whitewashed atmosphere and mountain scenery. The upper village is a web of narrow atmospheric lanes filled with charming shops selling all sorts of locally made goods: leather shoes, stained-glass decorations, various carpets and weavings and plenty of paintings. After Kritsa, we capped off the day in Agios Nikolaos, another coastal resort. This bustling coastal town has plenty of shops, restaurants and bars.
With our week winding down, we drove back to Heraklion, dropped the car at the airport and took a taxi into town. We wanted one day to check out the capital and browse the world-class Heraklion Archaeological Museum since we weren’t actually going to the ruins. This museum is a treasure trove spanning thousands of years and it deeply enriched our understanding of Knossos and the other famous archaeological sites on the island. After three hours in the museum, our brains were on overload, but it was a spectacular insight into the history of Greece.
Next, on to Naxos, Greece!
