Naxos, the largest of the Cyclades islands in the Aegean Sea, treats visitors to its rich heritage, expansive and beautiful beaches, show-stopping views and yummy cuisine (even for vegetarians). The list is long for why I love Naxos. This special island has that alluring Cycladic vibe that so many fantastic Greek islands share, BUT, unlike popular hotspots like Santorini and Mykonos, Naxos is extremely affordable and has a low-key vibe, hospitable locals and far fewer tourists.
Why I love Naxos:
- A melting pot of Mediterranean cultures…from Thracians to Ionians, to Romans and Venetians, you’ll see the millennia of history, as the island has been at the center of Cycladic life since 4000 BC
- Gorgeous sand beaches
- Easy to rent a car and get around
- Affordable!
- Full of enchanting mountain villages, Byzantine ruins, fields, and sheep!
Here’s how we spent a week on Naxos:
My mom and I arrived at the Port of Naxis via ferry from Crete (Check out my post on how to spend one week in Crete.) You can also fly to Naxos from Athens or take the ferry from Athens. Our ferry cruise departed from Crete’s Heraklion port and was easy, quick and smooth. Note that it is the same ferry that drops passengers off at Santorini so you will probably make a stop there on your way to Naxos if coming from Crete. Ferries arrive in the port in Chora located next to the Temple of Apollo, a terrific spot for sunsets. Along with Crete, ferries also connect Naxos to the islands of Mykonos, Ios, Milos and Folegandros and often make multiple stops. Ferryhopper.com is the best way to search for and purchase ferry tickets to and from Naxos.
We arrived about mid-day, the perfect time to pick up our rental car and set off to explore this new destination. Unless you’re planning on spending your entire stay in the Naxos Old Town, I do recommend renting a car during your stay. You will need an International Driving Permit along with your state-issued driver’s license to operate a vehicle in Greece. Tip: You should also know how to drive a manual transmission as automatics are few and far between.
Accommodation on Naxos Island
If you choose to stay in Chora (the main town in Naxos), you’ll have plenty of options for dining, sights and easy places to walk to. There are a bunch of locally owned AirBnB’s or check on Booking.com for boutique hotel options. Or, if you’re looking to experience somewhere beachside, you can head toward Agios Prokopios, Agia Anna, Plaka and others that offer restaurants, beach clubs, hotels and mini-markets.
For a true country experience, there are several small, traditional villages in the mountainous center of the island, the largest among them being Filoti, Apeiranthos and Glynado, and the most picturesque being Chalki. Villages in central Naxos are surrounded by farms, vineyards, olive groves and dairies. The greenest and most fertile Cycladic island, Naxos is known for its produce (especially potatoes), cheeses, cattle and Kitron, a local citrus liqueur.
Our incredible AirBnB was in Plaka, about 15 minutes from Chora. The view was delightful. Enough said.
How to spend 7 days in Naxos, Greece
Explore the Old Town: Naxos’ Old Town rises slightly up on a hill and is topped by Kastro, a 13th-century castle. Below the castle is a wonderful jumble of old pirate alleyways, shops, restaurants and more. You can easily spend a day or afternoon simply browsing the tiny hidey-hole shops. explore the romantic Venetian harbor or visit the lighthouse. Pick up some post cards or other souvenirs, sip a coffee and people watch!
Directly next to the Old Town is the Portara (Temple of Apollo), a very large doorway/ruin dating back to the 6th century BC.
A door to nowhere. And. What. A. Doorway!
It was originally built as part of what was planned as a massive temple to Apollo, begun around 520 BC, but the ruler who commissioned it was overthrown and the temple was never completed. It sits on a tiny island, called Palatia, connected to the town by a causeway. This, according to legend, is where the Minoan princess Ariadne was abandoned by Theseus after helping him vanquish the Minotaur. 
Relax on a Beach: Naxos is a place where you can explore as much or as little as you like. Some of the best beaches in Naxos include Plaka Beach, Agios Georgios Beach, Agios Prokopios Beach and Alyko Beach. My mom and I are not beach dwellers (we get bored after an hour), but we did spend a lovely morning at Plaka Beach. We seemed to be the only ones on the sand and enjoyed the quiet and peaceful surf.
Head out to explore villages: Naxos is best explored by car as it is big and many sites and landmarks are far apart. Head off on a roadtrip and you can find some of the most picturesque villages in Greece, where the traditional and folklore elements take you on a trip back in time. We packed up the car with sunblock and refreshments and spent a few days just driving around the islands. We really enjoyed Halki, a charming town nestled amongst high mountains and the plateau of Tragaia and Apiranthos.
We drove up to the middle of the island to see some mountain vistas and scenic traditional villages. Naxos is mostly dry and rocky, although there are fertile valleys in the interior.
One day took us up through the center of the island, through Filoti, Apirathos and down to the coast along Moutsaouna. Filoti is definitely one of the most famous and most alluring villages on the island. It is home to roughly 60,000 sheep!
Filoti’s lovely alleys and picturesque stairs connect charming little squares and are lined with whitewashed houses, decorated with flowers blooming in bright colors.
Another afternoon took us along the coast, all the way to Appolonas. a small fishing village in the northeast part of the island, 40 km away from the capital. What brings tourists here is, among others, the gigantic statue of Kouros, which dates back to the 6th century BC. Apollonas has a quiet and calm cove. The beach has crystal clear waters, protected from the wind. Nearby are traditional taverns, where you can enjoy lunch after the dip in the water.
Cats of Naxos: cats are commonplace in Greece. They are well taken care of by the community and very friendly. They feed them and work on getting them spayed and neutered. I noticed lots of cats with clipped ears – the universal sign they have been fixed.
Fun Fact: In Greek mythology, Naxos is the childhood home of Zeus, who was raised in a cave on what is now Mount Zas in order to hide from his father Cronos, who had already eaten his 5 siblings.
Next, on to Athens, Greece!
