Patagonia is every hiker’s dreamscape. This fabled land — so vividly painted from the pages and experiences of Chatwin, Theroux and Darwin — spans two countries and over 400,000 square miles. From lush meadows to raging rivers, wild-flower carpets to wind-torn summits, glacial lakes to snow-covered hills, Patagonia is a land of striking contrasts.

I sailed around Cape Horn in 2003, capturing the southernmost headland of the Tierra del Fuego archipelago in my binoculars as we battled a three-day gale. In lighter winds, we would have sailed right up to this legendary outcrop of basalt for a closer look or perhaps a photograph. After all, Cape Horn has become a fascinating destination for both curious adventurers and intrepid sailors hoping to achieve one of the ultimate sailing feats known to man (woman!!) rounding the horn.

On another trip through South America in 2008, I traveled as far south as Bariloche, focusing the majority of my time in Argentina’s northern region’s of Salta, Mendoza and Puerto Madryn, plus the celebrated Iguazu Falls. I spent about a week between Bariloche and neighboring El Bolson, the happy hippy enclave home to many picturesque hikes and endless fields of sunflowers. I remember long sunny days hiking along the beautiful Rio Azul, Cerro Piltriquitrón and El Cajon Azul, followed by evening by firelight with new friends from all nationalities. At that time, I have to admit that, after three months of traveling by bus through South America, even if Argentina’s long distance buses were amazing …. the 30+ hour bus ride down to El Chaltén was daunting! But I knew I’d be back so I saved Patagonia for later in life.

And here I was. A little over 10 years later, back in the land of cowboys, glaciers and Malbec wine! God, it’s good to be back! Read on to follow my adventures through El Calafate, down to the far reaches of Patagonia in El Chalten.

El Calafate and the astounding Perito Merino Glacier

As one of Argentina’s 47 glaciers, the awe-inspiring Perito Moreno glacier perches on the edge of Lago Argentino in Patagonia. Just west of the base town of El Calafate, this frozen moving river is one of the few glaciers in the world that is still growing. Visiting the glacier is a mesmeric experience. Along with the brilliant sapphire-hued ice — a color so vibrantly blue, it’s perhaps only seen on the wings of butterflies — one can listen to the crash, boom and crack of ice sheets moving and falling in front of you. It’s a spectacular show! I took an afternoon trip, arriving at the glacier around 3 p.m. and leaving about 6 p.m. Three hours is more than enough to wander along the boardwalks and take in the glacier from all angles. Because it stays light so late in the Pagatonian region (like 10 p.m.) you’ll still have hours of sunlight far into the afternoon hours.

Getting there: It’s a 90-minute drive between El Calafate and the Perito Moreno glacier in Los Glacieras National Park. Several bus companies, including CalTur and Chaltén Travel, head to the park about three times a day (or fewer outside of the months of October-March). The earliest ones leave around 8:30 AM and the latest return at 7:30 PM. Roundtrip tickets cost around $30 USD and can be bought from most hostels or hotels, or at any of the travel agencies along the high street of El Calafate. Or, go directly to the bus companies’ offices on Avenida San Martin or to the main bus terminal to compare the times and prices.
Entrance cost: The current cost of a ticket into the national park is $800 ARS ($13 USD) for foreigners. Be prepared to pay on arrival when the bus stops at the entrance gates. The park officials will only accept Argentine pesos in cash — no dollars and no credit cards. Bring cash or you will have to wait on the bus and be a very unhappy traveler.
How best to see the glacier: Upon arrival, there are myriad options for “experiencing” the glacier. Book a boat tour, take a glacier trek (long hikes and short guided hikes are both offered), or spend a few hours by yourself exploring the many boardwalks surrounding the nose of the glacier. There are about 5 different boardwalks, each labeled with a color code. You can leisurely stroll at your own pace, pausing to take in the magnificent sights and listen to the “calving” glaciers.
Best time to visit the glacier: If you have the time in your schedule, I’d absolutely go in the afternoon — the majority of the crazy tourist crowds have left and you’ll have a more intimate time exploring the boardwalks. You can even find a quiet place to sit and meditate at the glorious views in front of you without worry of interruption or chatty visitors. However, although it will probably be warmer in the afternoon, you also may encounter a turn in the weather. Down in this area of Patagonia, the cloud move in fast and fierce!

El Chalten – A Hiker’s Playground and Paradise

After El Calafate, I hopped on a bus to the sweet, eclectic town of El Chaltén in Los Glaciares National Park, ready to explore a spectrum of hiking opportunities. With a host of adorable mountain chalets, fun breweries, yummy vegetarian-friendly menus and many trekking routes that begin just outside town, El Chaltén is honestly what dreams are made of. Whether you’re a beginning hiker or a full-fledged mountaineering expert, there is a trail to suit everyone of all fitness levels and ages. You can easily hop on a trail just outside of your door, or for trailheads outside of town, there are taxis and shuttles that run frequently along Ruta 41. Hitchhiking is also the norm and you’ll find a group of hopeful travelers standing at the edge of town with signs for their various destinations.

Note: Although there is a ton of information to be found online, be sure to stop by the El Chaltén visitors center and pick up a map or two that outlines the region’s hikes. You’ll also get some in-depth insight into any approaching weather and the guides will provide their expertise on activities/hikes that suit your particular interests. Also, before leaving on any hike, be sure to let your accommodation know which hike you will be doing and when they can expect you to return. This is especially important if you are hiking alone!

Short Hikes in Los Glaciares National Park

Below are a few of the shorter hikes that I enjoyed during my week in El Chaltén. I managed to squeeze these smaller hikes in on days that were either a bit rainy or when I needed a day off to relax.

Mirador Los Condores — 2-3 miles return — Easy: Best enjoyed at sunrise or sunset, the hike to Mirador Los Cóndores offers jaw-dropping views of the Chaltén range, including the Adela, Fitz Roy and Torre massifs. The path leaves from the ranger station and gently leads you gently uphill to the Mirador Los Cóndores. You can then walk another 3/4 mile to Mirador Las Águilas for views of Lago Viedma.
Chorillo del Salto — 4 miles return — Easy: This semi-cool waterfall is an easy walk from town. If you have limited time in El Chaltén or are looking for a mellow alternative to an 8-hour hike, head on out to the falls. Be warned that this is a very popular hike and is often packed with other walkers and tour groups. There are two different ways to reach the falls. Either start at the trailhead on the north end of town and follow the path along the hillside, which will descend to meet with the gravel road before it arrives at the Chorrillo de Salto trailhead. Or, just walk along the gravel road directly from town and you will soon encounter a wood sign pointing you in the right direction.
Laguna Capri — 5 miles return — Moderate: This moderate hike also starts at the trailhead at the north end of town. Don’t let the first battle uphill defeat you for you’ll soon arrive in an open valley with views of Fitz Roy, hopefully not cloud covered! Follow the path through a peaceful forest of ñire and lenga trees before arriving at Laguna Capri. It’s an excellent spot for a late breakfast!

Full-Day Hikes in Los Glaciares National Park

There is nothing that makes me more giddy (other than coffee and my puppy) than to lace up my hiking boots and set off for a full day of hiking. Seriously, I don’t care how long I walk or how difficult the trail, if I can be out for 6+ hours, wandering through nature, listening to the sounds of nothingness and just existing with no priorities, no to-do list and no conversation, I’m as happy as can be — exuberant even!

Granted, my OCD complex does kick in a little bit. I pack way too many snacks and extra layers of clothes for just in case, but I think I’m just super-duper prepared, plus trail mix makes me happy. Anyway, with an extraordinary choice of hikes right outside my door— literally — I planned to stay in El Chaltén for about a week, allowing some extra time for both rainy days and “ouch, I can’t move because I hiked too much yesterday” days.

Hiking Laguna de los Tres – Fitz Roy Trail

Laguna de los Tres or Fitz Roy — 13 miles roundtrip — Difficult: Laguna de los Tres is usually at the top of most hiker’s must-do list. If you are in the valley for several days, try to plan your hike to Laguna de los Tres on a day with clear skies and low winds. The rangers at the visitors center are happy to show you the weather report for your time in El Chalten and help you plan your hiking around the best/worst weather to come. My opinion is to begin as early as possible for many reasons: a) clouds are more likely to move in later in the day, bringing with them rain and wind, causing icky and sometimes dangerous hiking conditions, b) the clouds will also cover the summit of Fitz Roy, and c) the trail gets mad busy later in the day with huge hiking groups and annoyingly loud idiots. I had most of the hike to Fitz Roy to myself, which was awesome. However, on my way down the mountain, I encountered a ton of hiking groups that took over the trail and had no regard for trail etiquette.

Leave from the trailhead at the north end of Avenida San Martín, ascending quickly into a forest and spend a few hours meandering up/down hills, through pretty yellow prairie grasses, over streams and whatever other dreamy mountain landscapes you can image. Towards the end, you’ll encounter the crux of the hike, a series of rocky switchbacks that go on … and on … and on for about 1,200 feet until finally reaching Laguna de los Tres. Once at the lake, give a cheer, have a snack and put on some layers as you’ll be more exposed to wind and other elements. Enjoy views of Fitz Roy, Glaciar de los Tres, and the stunningly blue waters before you. Hopefully, the summit of Fitz Roy will be exposed, although I’m told that it is cloud covered about 80% of the time. If so, don’t worry, most hikers don’t get the opportunity to actually revel in the snowcapped summit. Even so, I recommend hanging out for a while to truly capture the moment. Plus, you can congratulate other hikers when they arrive and trade snacks if you’re so inclined. If you have the energy, take a stroll along the lakeshore or head to the left about half a mile for spectacular panoramic views over Lago Sucia in the adjacent valley. (Note: I actually combined the Laguna de Los Tres hike with the Laguna Torre hike. There is a path that cuts through the valley, connecting the two paths. I was given an fabulous weather day and was up for the challenge. It was indeed a long day at about 13 hours.)

Hiking Loma del Pliegue Tumbado

Loma del Pliegue Tumbado — 13 miles roundtrip — Moderate: Although the Fitz Roy hike is the most celebrated, I actually enjoyed the Loma del Pliegue Tumbado much, much more. Perhaps, because the trail was just empty … which I loved. I’m one of those selfish hikers who likes to keep the beauty and peace of the trail to myself. The trail to Loma del Pliegue Tumbado is the perfect way to escape crowds and enjoy slightly different terrain and views.

Leave from the ranger station just south of El Chaltén, taking a right at the first junction towards Laguna Toro. Walk through an open hillside above town, rising gently through forests to a pasture with friendly, grazing cows. Further up, you’ll walk through a canopy of forest for almost an hour before emerging into a large open meadow. Here, the trail leads to a strikingly barren plateau with breathtaking views of the entire Chaltén range. (There was also a fox seeking friendship. He was a sweet little thing.) It’s tempting to stop here, but try to continue up to the very steep, windy summit of Loma del Pliegue Tumbado to see views of the Río Túnel Valley. The final summit looks daunting, but the views are worth every step. Just go slow and watch your footing on the loose sand/gravel. Hiking poles are a must on this hike, trust me!

Hiking Laguna Torre

Laguna Torre — 12.5 miles roundtrip — Moderate: As another popular hike in El Chaltén, the trail to Laguna Torre meanders alongside Río Fitz Roy and offers incredible, all-day views of the Torre Massif. You’ll also be awarded with views of the adjacent river valley and granite spires.

Leave from the trailhead on the hill above town, ascending steeply at first and then navigating gently up and down on a well-worn trail. You’ll eventually arrive on the shores of Laguna Torre, where you can cool your feet in the water and take in panoramas of the Torre Massif. Don’t be surprised to see glaciers floating in lake!

Although my time in Patagonia was brief, I savored every moment. It’s true that these lands are no longer on the “undiscovered” list. With a mecca of tourist agencies, breweries, spas, tour buses and other westernized conveniences, Patagonia certainly can’t be classified as off-the-beaten-path. Overall, I was pleased to see that much of the landscape was relatively unscathed (granted my bus didn’t take me past the portions with oil wells or deforestation taking place). Also, I didn’t see a lot of trash lying around, although I did ask multiple people to pick up after themselves after watching them throw their cigarette butts on the ground!

If you’re keen for an inspiring journey through storybook landscapes, punctuated with some heart-thumping hikes, start planning your own Patagonian adventure, if only to stand on a mountaintop and listen to the roar of the southern winds, breathe in sharp, cool breezes and watch eagles glide on endless air currents.